how to diy a professional looking coffered ceiling for <$800 in materials
Most of our money is spent on places and land. custom options.
My wife and I pursue projects to give the house a custom look that we can DIY and get the most out of return for our money.
I am a DIY enthusiast.
I am addicted to learning new things by building a plane on a plane.
This is the first time I do any type of ceiling and use Crown styling.
If I can do that, you can.
About a year ago, my wife and I saw a very beautiful bedroom Plaid ceiling on remodaholic.
The site presents a list of materials, a picture of progress, and describes the basic techniques.
This is enough to stimulate my imagination and curiosity.
However, there is not much detail.
This is certainly not a step. by-
Walk for beginners.
I had no experience with Crown styling before this project.
If learning to work with the crown on your list and you are patient (
Or at least know when to quit that day)
This is your project.
Technically, I learned this site from The Family Handyman.
Com ceiling: how to install the beam ceiling.
My approach is a mix of two sites.
I followed the home handyman site for beam frame and panel installation but used the beam material (1x4 and crown)
And the painting skills of remodaholic.
It took me about 2 months to finish the project.
This is not the actual working time.
My wife and I have no deadline.
I\'m working on other projects, working full time, spending time with my family, and when I\'m encouraged.
My guess is if I work 3-per day-
4 hours a day, 2-3 weeks.
If you are studying like me, 3 weeks.
Another way to add time to the project is to paint all the wood in the garage, then wait for the paint to dry and smell like . . . . . . Good paint.
I did not turn the bedroom into a dedicated site.
So I don\'t want to put down and remove the plastic cloth every day to protect the carpet, furniture and walls.
Also, the paint I use has a strong smell, so after applying it, I will let me sit in the airy garage for two days.
If you have the option to put all the wood up first and then apply stains and paint at once, you may be able to complete the project within two weeks.
The material cost of the project is approximately $730.
Attached is the spreadsheet I used to calculate the cost.
Obviously, the cost will vary depending on the ceiling size, the material you use, and the cost of locally sourced wood.
It\'s an approximation because sometimes I run to the big box shop in the local area to pick up things, but there is no record.
The spreadsheet covers the core material and should allow you to reach 99%.
Tools you need: Mittal saw (
Cutting crown, 2x4 and 1x4 s)
If you use the crown 4 or larger Crown Pro tool fixture, there are 12 \"gaps and Fences \")
Circular saw (
Cut panel size)
Level or chalk line (
Ceiling beam mark)
Brad Naylor (
Compressor and Brad gun for hanging panel and Crown)
Hang 2x4 and screw anchor guide holes)
Hammer and screwdriver or punch (
Screw anchor holes on the dry wall)
Needle tongs (
Delete brads with inappropriate behavior)
Search for stud (finding joists)
Stains for applying and feather paint and foam for quality brushes)
Angle finder (
Determine the cutting angle on the Crown)
Panel-Definition of materials and materials
I used the multi-section alder wood.
The cabinets of our entire house are tricky alder beam grids
2x4 s Liang Pi-
1x4 tricky alder.
4 \"Crown styling-Crown width (installed)
It is necessary to be equal to the 2-layer width of the 2 × 4 s, pan \"paneling and 1 × 4, minus the trim.
The beam is attached to the ceiling and molded to the panel.
Mineral Spirits (
Clean brush between apps)
· Coloring-Minwax dark walnut · polyurethane-tartin · oil friction bronze painting-
Optional laser level to draw register 1 \"Brad nail 1\" screw and screw anchor (
Can be projected on the ceiling)
Find the screw of the main wall)
Crown Pro-tool (jig)(
I think this is a must, but technically you can not use it)
Adobe Illustrator (
Used to make a measurement schematic)
Chalk line (
Marking center of the beam)
The first and most important step is to measure the ceiling accurately.
This will be the foundation of the whole project and make the ceiling look symmetrical.
You do not want to find in the project that your project measurement is incorrect.
Measurement of beam grids.
My ceiling is 174 \"(14 ½’)x 120” (10’).
I divide 174 by 3
This gives 58 \"increments.
My midpoint grid tag is 58 \', 116\' and 174 \'.
Divide the increment of 120 \'by 3 to get 40.
The midpoint grid is marked 40\', 80\' and 120 \'.
Then, I made a 1 * \'mark on both sides of the mid-point grid tag to mark the width of 2x4, which serves as a guide to the first 2x4 grid.
Attached is a schematic diagram of my measurements in PDF.
I use Adobe Illustrator to take advantage of the ruler and make straight lines quickly.
This is not a must;
It satisfies my planning nerd.
The Torre Hunt and markingJoist are 2 x 4S running in parallel, with an interval of 16 \", right above the drywall of the ceiling.
I want to make sure 2x 4S (
The first layer)
Screwed into the beam.
This creates a solid foundation for the vertical 2x 4S, which is attached to the dry wall, not the solid wood.
To find the pallet, I used a stud finder to get a rough idea of where the pallet is.
The builder separated the beam about 16 \".
Then I used nd (rare earth)
The magnet can find the drywall screws that connect the drywall to the center of the support beam. I used 4-
5 magnets to determine the trajectory of the beam through the ceiling.
To make sure I was accurate, the beam continued on the other side and I used 4-
5 magnets across the ceiling.
I then approximate the middle of the support beam horizontally with the beam laser.
The magnet will not be arranged in full center, because the connection of the magnet is different and the screws are not always centered;
However, you will see a pattern in the magnet to find the center.
Mark the beam line on the ceiling.
The easiest way is to use chalk lines.
Because, I have carpet, furniture, no drop cloth, so I connect the line drawn across the ceiling with a laser level and mark it with a level and pencil.
The chalk on the chalk drawing is iron and will not be mixed with the carpet.
I learned in a difficult way.
Marking the Beam grid ceiling panel: how to install the beam and panel ceiling field it is recommended that you use chalk lines of different colors to support the beam line and the Beam grid line.
I can\'t use chalk and don\'t want to draw a beam line on the ceiling.
When installing the 2x 4S, I was just marking the end of the 2x 4S with a beam grid mark on both sides of the ceiling.
I made sure the board was straight when buying 2x 4S.
I also made several measurements from the edge of 2x4 to the edge of the ceiling to make sure it is parallel.
The first beam grid layer, you want to start by installing 2 x 4S perpendicular to the ceiling beam marker, so that there is a solid foundation to connect the first layer of the next set, second layer and beam skin of 2x 4S.
To make the installation of the 10ft 2x 4S easier, I measured the beam line on the 2x4 and marked it and made a pilot hole, the counter sink drill bit is then used to ensure that the screw head is below the surface of 2x4.
So this is the next beam layer (2x4)will be flush.
I also made pocket holes to connect the ends of 2x4 to the ceiling edge.
I have wood. I can drill. just drywall.
This is important because you want the top width to be uniform with the mesh layers at both ends.
Tip: 2x4 does not need to match the length of the ceiling on a piece of board.
1 x 4S and Crown will cover 2x4 s.
You can save money with the remaining 2x 4S of another project.
In addition, it is easier to install separate 2x 4S parts if installed separately.
Align 2x4 with the grid mark or chalk line as described above.
Screw in two rows of 2x4 s perpendicular to the beam.
Tip: Use the angle finder to make sure there is a 90 degree angle between the pocket ceiling and 2x4.
For 2x 4S in another direction, I arranged the beam mark on the ceiling and used the anchor screw (
Interval 16 \")
In the ceiling drywall, then use the pocket hole to screw the 2x 4S into the edge of the installed 2x 4S and pocket ceiling.
By doing multiple measurements along 2x4, double check that the 2x 4S is parallel to the ceiling and that you have a 90 degree angle.
Now that you have a parallel 90-degree angular grid, the second layer should be a snap.
Just measure the 2x 4S and screw the plate to the first level.
I used the pilot hole again, counter
And 16 \"spacing.
You don\'t need to use pocket holes at the end of the second floor.
Since you have a solid first layer foundation, you can simply screw the two ends directly into the first layer.
Don\'t forget the countersunk hole.
The panel I use has 9 panels.
Ceiling: advice on how to install beams and ceiling \".
My reason is: it\'s easier to hold the lighter panel (55”x37”)
When installing (
I did the whole project myself), lower cost (
Shorter crown length required), and lighter (
Ability to use quick install 1 \"brads in ceiling drywall). I re-
Measure each ceiling panel pocket (
Measure twice, cut once)
And subtract RMB \"on length and width \".
This will give you the panel space in your pocket.
This gives you room to adjust.
Crown spring corner (2”)
Will be enough to cover the \"half\" around the panel and any tear caused by tearing the board.
I cut 55 and 37 panels from 9 96 \"x 48\" panels.
I have to use 9 96 \"x 48\" boards as I can only remove one from each.
Before dyeing the panel, please make sure the opening of the cutting register.
When measuring the panel, remember to consider the length and width of the panel.
This is not too important because the Crown will cover the 2 \"around the panel so there is a lot of space to play.
We paint in oil-coated bronze (
Display in material).
Stains and lacquer I spent a lot of time trying different stains, paint, glass windows and pre-
The color I like.
I mean \"my wife\" likes it. She (I mean “we”)
We want our cabinets and furniture.
The grid ceiling on Remodaholic uses a pre-
Stains, stains and two layers of paint.
The best look for us is a coat with Minwax dark walnut stains and a coat with clear satin finish.
I apply stains in an app with a foam brush.
I then absorb the excess stains with paper towels and help to apply the stains evenly.
You don\'t want to leave extra stains on the panel.
It leads to black spots and uneven appearance.
I am allowed to arrive within 24 hours of stains and paint coats.
The paint can be applied a few hours after the stain.
The reason for doing this in the garage
After installing all the wood, the smell of both disappeared before installation.
I applied the paint in an app with a fresh brush and then used feather for the second time (
Gently drag the brush at a 45-degree angle to remove the bristles marks in the paint face).
After drying and drying
I use Brad DingTalk and 1 \"brads to hang the panel.
At first I was worried that the brads on the dry wall were not enough to hold the panel to the ceiling, but it worked well.
The plywood is not that heavy and enough brads will work.
I\'m not worried about Brad\'s location or the number of brads that the Crown will cover.
I shoot brads around every 9 inch m in the corner.
The last layer on Beam is the tricky alder for 1x4 s.
I used the same drawing technique on the panel.
Before installing the 1 x 4S, you must decide which direction of the beam is a continuous plate and which direction is a block of 1x4.
It was an easy decision for me.
The longest 1 x 4S I can get is in the 12\' board.
Because one length of the mesh is 10\' and the other is 14\', the length of one board must be 10.
14 \'boards divided into 3 55.
To hang the 1 x 4S, I took the brand corner to the side of 1x4 and shot it to 2x4 pairs
Shoot from the bottom (visible side)
1x4 s to 2x4.
The appearance is cleaner and there are fewer potential Brad holes covered.
Dear crown, I love you. I hate you.
I really like the look and final item of the Crown, but the Crown is a picky date.
At the same time, there are two competing variables at work.
Match the inner corner and make sure the bottom of the Crown is aligned with the bottom of 1x4.
Make both right and make the professional beam look good.
The challenge of dyeing the Crown is to cover up mistakes without filling and paint.
Before installing, I tried the stained wood filler on the scrap to see what it would look like.
You can still see it after the filler is dyed.
After studying, I learned that the side of the Crown is a seamless seam.
The downside is using hands-
It takes quite a bit of time to hold the response saw.
36 deal with cuts. . . No, thank you.
These high-speed clips are shown on Youtube\'s teaching videos.
I can\'t cope.
There are other techniques to use the herringbone saw fence.
I decided to buy a Kreg Crown pro fixture.
The fixture allows you to adjust according to the angle of the Crown spring to make the cut fully fit together.
The purchase is very worth it for me.
Using the fixture and the 4 crown, you need a diagonal saw with a 12 \"gap.
If you are not working with the Crown, there is a small learning curve for the internal cutting (
For this project
All cut inside).
Place the Crown upside down, the right cutting fixture is placed on the left side of the oblique cutting saw blade, and the blade 45 degrees angle is moved to the left side.
Opposite of the left incision.
After a few cuts, it becomes a muscle memory.
There are a lot of videos on your tube, just enter \"cut crown molding with composite herringbone saw \".
It is best to go back and measure each panel, corner angle, and crown length before doing a oblique Crown cutting.
Below is the schematic I updated in illustrator.
You will want to have the oblique cut match your panel angle. s e. g.
If your angle is 90 degrees, the left and right oblique cuts are 45 degrees.
If the angle is 87, then each angle is 43 \".
The crown length is measured from the base of the Crown to match the length of the 1x4 cutting method. Use my schematic to cut three crowns at a time and hang a crown at the top and bottom of Brad in the center of the Crown.
This gives me the ability to adjust the crown at each end if needed.
Before cutting the crown of the fourth length, I re-
The measured size has not changed, which is a perfect fit.
Once I was very satisfied diagonally, I nailed the corners in one place to fill the Brad hole and I used minwax 3. 75 oz.
Walnut putty. That’s it.
I am a big job, but I am very satisfied.
I hope you like it.